Thursday, January 04, 2007
New Year's in Hanoi
New Year's in Hanoi was a muted affair. On the advice of David, the Chinese-American guy I hung out with in Hong Kong, I reserved a table at Bobby Chin's, an Asian fusion restaurant located beside Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi. It's a gorgeous, trendy hotel with a red velvet interior. It was hopping on New Year's. Alas, the restaurant messed up my reservation and I ended up eating at the bar but that was okay as it gave me the opportunity to talk to various guests, the friendly bar staff and Bobby Chin himself. After that, I took a long cycle (rikshaw) tour around the old quarter which was lit up nicely and full of people. So sweet: the Vietnamese yelled "Happy New Year" as I passed. They, themselves, celebrate the lunar new year, known as Tet, in mid-February.
Hanoi is very French, with old colonial buildings, wide streets and touches such as baguettes and pate being sold on every corner, chi chi French restaurants and exquisite pastry shops. Not much French is heard here amongst Vietnamese people. In fact, the only French you will hear is from French tourists (lots) and some very old Vietnamese and tour guides. English is the main foreign language and I think Chinese will soon become just as popular.
So far in Hanoi, I've explored the French quarter, the old quarter and the area around my hotel which is a bit out of the centre and devoid of any tourists. I know this because I went in search of a laundromat and Internet cafe. I managed to make a woman selling flowers on a street corner understand by miming the washing of clothes. She left her stall and marched me down the street to a little store where a crowd eventually gathered to help the foreigner. With at least six friendly people yelling and gesturing simultaneously, the laundry lady finally understood. But I was mortified when she began pulling out my dirty clothing (including bras and underwear) at which point everyone, including the men, began guffawing and clammering for a view. Next it was my turn to gesture and yell frantically. I covered my eyes and made groaning noises which were surprisingly effective and the clothes disappeared back into the bag.
One interesting thing I've found out. Abortion is a major form of birth control in Vietnam. In fact, the magazine I read claimed that Vietnam is the country with the second highest rate of abortions in the world. I find this very surprising as sex education as well as HIV/AIDS prevention is taught all over. It's especially high among teenagers and young women. I asked a Vietnamese woman about this and she said it's the result of changing cultural behaviour. Young people leave home to go to university or college, shack up with boyfriends and get carried away, far from parental supervision.
Hanoi is very French, with old colonial buildings, wide streets and touches such as baguettes and pate being sold on every corner, chi chi French restaurants and exquisite pastry shops. Not much French is heard here amongst Vietnamese people. In fact, the only French you will hear is from French tourists (lots) and some very old Vietnamese and tour guides. English is the main foreign language and I think Chinese will soon become just as popular.
So far in Hanoi, I've explored the French quarter, the old quarter and the area around my hotel which is a bit out of the centre and devoid of any tourists. I know this because I went in search of a laundromat and Internet cafe. I managed to make a woman selling flowers on a street corner understand by miming the washing of clothes. She left her stall and marched me down the street to a little store where a crowd eventually gathered to help the foreigner. With at least six friendly people yelling and gesturing simultaneously, the laundry lady finally understood. But I was mortified when she began pulling out my dirty clothing (including bras and underwear) at which point everyone, including the men, began guffawing and clammering for a view. Next it was my turn to gesture and yell frantically. I covered my eyes and made groaning noises which were surprisingly effective and the clothes disappeared back into the bag.
One interesting thing I've found out. Abortion is a major form of birth control in Vietnam. In fact, the magazine I read claimed that Vietnam is the country with the second highest rate of abortions in the world. I find this very surprising as sex education as well as HIV/AIDS prevention is taught all over. It's especially high among teenagers and young women. I asked a Vietnamese woman about this and she said it's the result of changing cultural behaviour. Young people leave home to go to university or college, shack up with boyfriends and get carried away, far from parental supervision.
