Sunday, January 07, 2007
Final days in Hanoi
What a crazy few last days. Sapa was beautiful but extremely cold and I was in no way prepared clothing-wise for the winter-like conditions there. I did have a fleece and spring jacket but it rained non-stop and my hotel (open-air concept with my room door facing an outdoor corridor) was heated but draughty.
To keep a long story short, I ended up getting a wicked cold and being bed-ridden with a high fever and runny nose. I took the decision to leave Sapa and return to Hanoi (and the comfort of my hotel) early, taking the 10-hour day train instead of the overnight train. The complication was that there were no first-class sleepers or berths available on such short notice so I was herded into what I would characterize as the "cattle cars": the cars that normal Vietnamese use which are benches made of wooden slats with no cushions. (I did mention that the journey took 10 hours, right?!) So I show up and am confronted with hundreds of Vietnamese faces staring incredulously at me ('What the heck is she doing here?) I took my seat under the gaze of a crowd of eyes.
The journey actually turned out to be okay and it gave me a chance to have a bit of contact with Vietnamese people beyond the usual tourist exchanges. A few people practised indeciferable English, more shared their food and still others just walked back and forth along the train car to have a glance. Two tips for future travellers to Vietnam: bring plenty of food as only strange, unappetizing snacks are available on the journey and have a catheter or pouch inserted so you don't need to use the toilets on the train. O learned the hard way. After my small stash of cookies and mints ran out, I had to purchase some terribly-tasting local snacks and over-priced water. Then, I had to use the bathroom. All I can say is "oh my gosh". I have travelled to a lot of places but that train's bathroom was by far the most disgusting toilet I have ever encountered in a public space. To the point that I was retching the whole time from the concentrated amonia-like smell and used a bottle of hand gel to sanitize my hands. I am happy to report that my bladder is good and strong as I refused to go again until I was back in my hotel room.
During the train ride, several young women seemed to take an interest in me and became quite friendly. One who sat across from me took pity on me and shared her thick wool blanket with me: she using it as a pillow, me using it as a cushion for my very sore butt. Another came and sat beside me. I was sitting beside the window and I noticed that when I got up to stretch my legs and came back, she was sitting in my place so I sat down beside her. We both kind of dozed off with her resting her head on my shoulders. I didn't want to wake her up so I sat quietly.
However, just as we were about to disembark, I checked my zippered pocket where I kept a wad of cash plus an envelope containing my passport, credit card and ATM card. My cash was gone (about US$30 worth) but thankfully, everything else was there. The only person who was anywhere close to my pocket was that woman. Panicking, I tried to explain to my fellow passengers that my money was gone but no one spoke English. I tried to confront her but she kept looking under the seat and pointing to the bathroom as if I should check there. She then quickly gathered her bags and left the train.
I am sure it was she who stole my money. The worst part wasn't losing the money. It was my illusion that I was having genuine contact with local people and then realising that it was a scam. So, lesson to all of you, do not blindingly trust strangers, especially in poor countries where locals see all tourists as rich and privileged, and always keep your guard up. Put money and valuables in inside pockets while on buses and trains and keep your eyes on your stuff.
I've been reading a lot about Buddhist philosophy on this trip. According to it, I should interpret the situation in a neutral way. It's neither good nor bad that the theft happened. I should perceive it in a non-negative way. Perhaps the woman needed the money (definitely more than me) for some important person. And (this part I like due to my small wish for revenge), she will receive her come-uppance because karma is the name of the game. What goes around comes around.
I literally staggered off the train, having lost all feeling in my butt about half-way through the journey, rolled into a taxi and sped off to the lovely De Syloia hotel to enjoy my last days in Hanoi.
To keep a long story short, I ended up getting a wicked cold and being bed-ridden with a high fever and runny nose. I took the decision to leave Sapa and return to Hanoi (and the comfort of my hotel) early, taking the 10-hour day train instead of the overnight train. The complication was that there were no first-class sleepers or berths available on such short notice so I was herded into what I would characterize as the "cattle cars": the cars that normal Vietnamese use which are benches made of wooden slats with no cushions. (I did mention that the journey took 10 hours, right?!) So I show up and am confronted with hundreds of Vietnamese faces staring incredulously at me ('What the heck is she doing here?) I took my seat under the gaze of a crowd of eyes.
The journey actually turned out to be okay and it gave me a chance to have a bit of contact with Vietnamese people beyond the usual tourist exchanges. A few people practised indeciferable English, more shared their food and still others just walked back and forth along the train car to have a glance. Two tips for future travellers to Vietnam: bring plenty of food as only strange, unappetizing snacks are available on the journey and have a catheter or pouch inserted so you don't need to use the toilets on the train. O learned the hard way. After my small stash of cookies and mints ran out, I had to purchase some terribly-tasting local snacks and over-priced water. Then, I had to use the bathroom. All I can say is "oh my gosh". I have travelled to a lot of places but that train's bathroom was by far the most disgusting toilet I have ever encountered in a public space. To the point that I was retching the whole time from the concentrated amonia-like smell and used a bottle of hand gel to sanitize my hands. I am happy to report that my bladder is good and strong as I refused to go again until I was back in my hotel room.
During the train ride, several young women seemed to take an interest in me and became quite friendly. One who sat across from me took pity on me and shared her thick wool blanket with me: she using it as a pillow, me using it as a cushion for my very sore butt. Another came and sat beside me. I was sitting beside the window and I noticed that when I got up to stretch my legs and came back, she was sitting in my place so I sat down beside her. We both kind of dozed off with her resting her head on my shoulders. I didn't want to wake her up so I sat quietly.
However, just as we were about to disembark, I checked my zippered pocket where I kept a wad of cash plus an envelope containing my passport, credit card and ATM card. My cash was gone (about US$30 worth) but thankfully, everything else was there. The only person who was anywhere close to my pocket was that woman. Panicking, I tried to explain to my fellow passengers that my money was gone but no one spoke English. I tried to confront her but she kept looking under the seat and pointing to the bathroom as if I should check there. She then quickly gathered her bags and left the train.
I am sure it was she who stole my money. The worst part wasn't losing the money. It was my illusion that I was having genuine contact with local people and then realising that it was a scam. So, lesson to all of you, do not blindingly trust strangers, especially in poor countries where locals see all tourists as rich and privileged, and always keep your guard up. Put money and valuables in inside pockets while on buses and trains and keep your eyes on your stuff.
I've been reading a lot about Buddhist philosophy on this trip. According to it, I should interpret the situation in a neutral way. It's neither good nor bad that the theft happened. I should perceive it in a non-negative way. Perhaps the woman needed the money (definitely more than me) for some important person. And (this part I like due to my small wish for revenge), she will receive her come-uppance because karma is the name of the game. What goes around comes around.
I literally staggered off the train, having lost all feeling in my butt about half-way through the journey, rolled into a taxi and sped off to the lovely De Syloia hotel to enjoy my last days in Hanoi.
